While La Casita Mexicana was always groundbreaking—placing gastronomy on the Huntington Park-Lynwood axis—it is now a benchmark. The narrow Bell kitchen where Ramiro Arvizu and Jaime Martin Del Campo work the stoves represents the refined logic behind traditional cooking. The char of thin-cut beef cecina contrasts with a salad of cactus paddle strips. The Veracruz-style sauce demands that the tomatoes be reduced enough so that the capers, olives, and chile guero register when the sauce infuses the fish. With Mexican cuisine entering exciting times, this humble restaurant has become crucial. Today a taco might well be a canvas for creativity, but a meticulously prepared plate of chicken enchiladas, green pipián, and rice still makes for one perfect bite.