No. 58: Joe’s Restaurant

Venice
332

Wood beamed and filled with modern art, Joe’s has been true to its ingredient-driven vision since 1991—long enough for a chef like Dan Barber, of New York’s Blue Hill, to consider his time here to be his formative cooking job. Though the cottagey building represents the best of Venice, Joe Miller’s fascination with the classic repertoire has always added a layer of complexity. Today crisp white asparagus is served on a pillow of béarnaise, and the kitchen puts out gorgeously rose-at-the-center shad roe that’s sautéed and scattered with pickled cabbage florets. The potato scales on a fish fillet are like a second skin, and nowhere else in L.A. will you see crabmeat-accented beef fillet “Oscar.”  

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