No. 55: Lotería Grill

Photograph courtesy

Jimmy Shaw was pumping the idea of authenticity a decade before it was hip. From his first post at the Original Farmers Market to a flashy Hollywood storefront (there are other locations, but these seem the most focused), the Mexico City-born chef’s goal is to expose Angelenos to an unfettered taste of pan-regional Mexico: pork rinds slow-stewed to a jiggly ideal, a rust-colored blanket of peanut-and-pumpkin seed sauce on petite enchiladas, chile de árbol dusted over a pork-packed bowl of pozole rojo. Seeing ladies who lunch break off brittle hunks of chicharrón de queso to dip in salsa verde confirms he has succeeded.

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