White-tablecloth vegan—it was bound to happen. The booths are tufted, the Toulouse-Lautrec lithograph is original, and Tal Ronnen’s food is universally appealing. Of course he’s got quinoa down to moist perfection, but reinterpreting carnivore favorites is his m.o. You’d swear the chopped hearts of palm that goes into his “crab cakes” was Maryland’s best lump crabmeat. The breaded “scallopini”—made from a grain compound—is crisp and rewarding. A wheat protein “bolognese” sauce over ribbons of pappardelle vividly reimagines the original. Pastry chef Serafina Magnussen’s cannoli—its shell flavored with marsala, then filled with whipped vegan ricotta—shows just how good a dessert made without milk or eggs or butter can be.