No. 53: Park’s BBQ

Photograph courtesy

There’s Korean barbecue and then there’s Park’s, an unremarkable-looking space where the tables are covered with enough heavily marbled slices of beef to make a butcher weep. Yet you needn’t order luxuriant American wagyu to experience Park’s deftness. Your mosaic of banchan—little dishes of tender fish cakes, marinated greens, crunchy kimchi—is refreshed before the last bite as overhead fans whisk away any meat-scented charcoal smoke that might linger on your clothes. Ostensibly you can grill the meat yourself, but most diners wisely defer to the waitresses armed with tongs and kitchen shears.  

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