Thomas Keller may not be on the premises, but he doesn’t have to be. The Yountville chef’s gospel of perfectionism has trickled down to his sole Los Angeles outpost, which executes his vision of a chic, upscale bistro. Though a transplant, Bouchon has settled into the surreal luxury of Beverly Hills like a pricey leather armchair. You can be assured that everything—from the golden color of the frites that come with your pan-seared flatiron steak to the ethereal potato puree beneath a pale and plump link of boudin blanc—adheres to the master’s exacting standards. That’s not to say the place is stiff. This is a bistro, after all, and the dining room radiates a polished comfort.