No. 45: Drago Centro

Downtown
390

With floor-to-ceiling glass walls on the ground level of a downtown bank tower, Drago Centro brings to mind the restaurants you see near the Borsa, the stock exchange in Milan. The place is refined enough that an empty bowl for shells accompanies the linguine alle vongole, but on occasion chef-owner Celestino Drago and chef de cuisine Ian Gresick will roast a whole suckling pig. A private party (seated in what used to be a bank vault) beams as well-turned-out waiters file in with platters of chanterelles and truffles. In the main dining room people linger, looking toward the cypress trees in the Maguire Gardens and the steps of the Central Library as they relish the last drop of Gaja.

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