Alma’s rise to prominence over the past few years has been a joy to observe. The roaming pop-up blossomed into a spartan brick-and-mortar in a once-desolate section of downtown. During that time, Ari Taymor’s subdued, naturalistic tasting menus have grown in ambition as well. Earthenware plates of ruby-colored ocean trout crowned with roe resemble comely baubles, while a palate-cleansing saucer of geranium sorbet with lemon foam tastes like a distillation of spring itself. Dishes like the seared, truffle-scented wagyu with roasted turnips and walnuts indicate that Taymor’s enlightened, ingredient-obsessed approach is reaching its creative zenith.