Lonchera carts rove the dining room loaded with surprises like purple sea urchin shells filled with mussels and green chile rémoulade or spears of Mexican papaya splashed with mojito dressing. John Rivera Sedlar draws from the tides of history to create a cohesive dining experience that melds street food and gastronomy, the ancient and the new. Enhancing the effect is L.A.’s most intensive exploration of Mexican and Spanish wine varietals. The Staples Center glows like a lavender asteroid nearby as you enjoy a goat cheese tamal cooked in a hollowed-out squash. Finish with the Lenten bread pudding strewn with hawker-style roasted peanuts and—porque no?—the flight of aged Madeiras.