No. 35: Allumette

Echo Park
136

The tweezer-manipulated plates of Miles Thompson may appear dainty, but his cooking drips with soul. Half-shucked snow peas are arranged over a dollop of tofu with citrus and coconut cream, adding just enough heft to buoy the vegetable’s natural sweetness. The waiter instructs you to chase a square of guava and fish sauce-lacquered lamb belly with a bit of trout roe wrapped in miner’s lettuce; together they form a grooving melody of brine and fat. One can easily forget this transporting experience is taking place inside a shoe box in the heart of Echo Park, a neighborhood where $1 tacos still rule the night.  

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