At the apex of Abbot Kinney’s love affair with beach-chic fashion and local produce lies Gjelina, the restaurant built on the rustic Cal-Italian ethos of Axe and Joe’s that pushes it to its natural conclusion. Wood-fired small plates arrive aggressively dressed, like grilled leaves of Treviso radicchio drenched in funky bagna cauda or sweet roasted parsnips in hazelnut picada. Like it or not, you’ll probably be seated at one of the communal tables, where thin, char-freckled pizzas battle for space alongside glasses of Slovenian Rebula. Is that guy next to you wearing Google Glass? Play it cool; this is Venice.