Capsules of olive juice wobble on spoons. Teeming with onion puree and aerated potato, the Spanish omelette froths in a glass tumbler, a soft-boiled egg (cooked at the molecularly prescribed 63 degrees Centigrade) trembling at its center. José Andrés puts forward a modernist ode to Spain in two shimmering rooms at the SLS Hotel. There’s a stellar rendition of Catalan pa’amb tomàquet—olive oil and tomatoes on blistered bread, garlic counterbalancing slices of Manchego—but the atmosphere suits the more creative offerings. Enjoy the wagyu slivers over miniature cheddar-filled rolls that Andrés calls a “Philly Cheese-steak,” and smile when Selena Gomez lays down her fork to pose for a selfie with a fan.