No. 29: Red Medicine

Beverly Hills

One of the smartest decisions Jordan Kahn made this year was to shed much of the Vietnamese influence of his moody Beverly Hills restaurant. In its place is a Nordic-
inspired penchant for unusual foraged produce and elaborate plating. His use of tree slabs and glass terrariums in lieu of dinner plates may induce eye rolling, but the former pastry chef is gifted in the art of weaving together incongruent textures and flavors. Could that pile of raw and pickled mushrooms—obscured by a mound of young fir branches, wild herbs, and fried reindeer moss—be decomposing on a forest floor somewhere? Maybe, but you’ll be glad it’s in front of you now.  

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