At Bucato pasta is a sacrament. Chef Evan Funke trained for months in Bologna, perfecting the art of hand-shearing strands of tagliatelle and rolling out thick ribbons of pappardelle before implementing the same techniques at his own white-walled restaurant in the Helms Bakery complex. His kitchen’s stern-faced dedication to restraint is a good thing: Perforated curls of gnochetti are set off by floral pesto genovese, while crispy-skinned wild bass requires only the caper-and-olive tang of a puttanesca. Some nights there is porchetta—lusciously juicy, rubbed with garlic, and piled between slabs of lardo-slathered ciabatta. This is Funke’s idea of cutting loose.