Flat as a schoolhouse ruler, crisp as a Kentucky dawn, the chicken cracklings that get shot with chili vinegar at this Melrose venue serve as a beacon for the spirited cooking of Brian Dunsmoor and Kris Tominaga. The duo started out in a gastro truck, and while an actual dining room allows for niceties like coursing things out, being located in a boutique hotel hasn’t tamed the friends one whit. It’s all-out, high-impact Southern cooking. At brunch praline bits are sneaked into pecan pancakes. At dinner, as T.S. Eliot looks down from a tile wall, cornmeal-dusted oysters are served with bacon tartar sauce and a mason jar of creamy smoked trout shares a board with avocado-heaped toast. Finish with the lemon icebox pie. Mississippi writer Eudora Welty once referred to “a sweet devouring.” With such confections, that’s exactly what you’ll be doing.