The kitchen where Steve Samson and Zach Pollack are busy tending the fires would be the focal point if there wasn’t so much happening on the plate. Cauliflower florets and cured lemon duel beneath a grilled mackerel scapece. An egg, sunny side up, cooks in a bowl of minestra country soup, chock full of wild mustard greens, just as it would in Umbria. Strewn over hand-rolled buds of maharrones pasta in tomato sauce, the Sardinian cheese Fiore Sardo adds a hint of sharpness, a modest indulgence, like a shepherd’s treat. What these two friends do with Italian food is a brilliant tribute to simplicity.