No. 20: République

Mid City

Walter Manzke has worked his way through a bunch of styles. There was refined at Patina, bistro at Church & State, and even surfer-Mexican at Petty Cash. Now he and his wife, Margarita, have turned the former Campanile site into a bustling brasserie with a skylight, long tables, and inspired neo-rustic cooking. Agnolotti are showered with morels; escargots are individually wrapped in puff pastry that releases a garlicky vapor when you crack through it. The food sets up the wines on Taylor Parsons’s list, with a carafe of barbaresco shadowing full-bodied dishes like rotisserie chicken with fingerlings roasted in fat.

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