In the four years since they took over the onetime location of Citrus, Quinn and Karen Hatfield have forged an elegant refuge where food can excite as heads lean forward in quiet conversation. Quinn’s cooking is about emphasis—the richness of yellowtail sashimi in a croque madame, the austere beauty of cuttlefish seared on a plancha. That fine touch extends to Karen’s desserts, where the brown butter cake has a following and a meringue disk crumbles into a banana cream pie. The chefs in the open kitchen may wear white toques, but oat groats pop in the buckwheat crepe that appears on the vegetarian menu. At Hatfield’s nothing is staid.