No. 13: Cook’s County

Beverly Grove

The $4 snack of radishes with Meyer lemon butter and sea salt, a few greens left on the end as if to honor the root’s origins, is a snapshot of Daniel Mattern’s mind-set: He knows just when to hold back, letting the produce do the work, and when to step in to add shading. The marine intensity of mullet roe bottarga pushes fork-pressed avocado beyond pleasing oiliness on toast. Mattern’s cooking glows with an all-American directness. The butterflied trout comes with two vegetables—celeriac and potato mash—and Mattern would be content were you to think of it as a plate of good grub. Roxana Jullapat’s desserts are playful interpretations. The apricot creamsicle is a wry update of the classic; her rhubarb linzer torte is a must.

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