No. 10: Night + Market

West Hollywood
346

Kris Yenbamroong’s Thai canteen on the Sunset Strip is less a restaurant than it is cultural performance art, taking on the raw, aggressive, and unfiltered flavors of rural northern Thailand. Spicy crispy rice salad and links of sour pork sausage are bolstered by copious amounts of fish sauce, diced chilies, and dried herbs, which Yenbamroong periodically smuggles via suitcase from Chiang Rai. A portrait of Pete Sampras in the dining room looks on while you choose between sparkling gamays or plastic towers of Chang beer. Boredom is impossible here—and that, in itself, is an accomplishment.

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