The Hotel Bel-Air’s famous white swans are still here, and the grounds are as lush as ever. But a two-year head-to-toe renovation replaced the Laura Ashley aesthetic with sexy, albeit restrained, Hollywood regency moderne in a palate of cream, khaki, gray, and black. Rooms feature rain showers, Toto toilets, and iPads. Most have private patios, too. There’s a new spa, of course, and Wolfgang Puck now runs the food service.