Despite all signs to the contrary, Kush is not a marijuana dispensary. There is smoke wafting through the kitchen here, but it comes from the dry, hot sear of kushiyaki—or “things grilled on sticks.” Chicken bits, pork belly, bacon-wrapped scallops, and Japanese pumpkin arrive blistered on small wood skewers. All are fine, but we miss some of the traditional poultry parts like heart and liver. Opalescent slices of chilled octopus drape a sunomono salad. A single meatball appears on a mound of mashed potatoes with a poached egg. A drop more attention to the sake will cement Kush as a solid spot to work out those munchies.» 1356 Allison Ave., 213-265-7609.