Willie Jane

[Venice]

1 Comment

Photograph courtesy facebook.com

Leave it to restaurateur Brad Johnson to turn around his flailing Venice operation, Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing, lickety-split. With a new name and a new chef—fellow industry veteran Govind Armstrong—the Abbot Kinney space has been revived and adds another notch to L.A.’s Southern-food belt. Preserved lemon butter brightens a steamed mussels broth that’s shot through with bits of tasso ham; a sweet tea brine elevates a thick pork chop. The net effect, when you’re digging into these dishes on the back patio, is as sultry as a bayou afternoon. We wish the beverage list—mainstream wines and bland cocktails—matched the menu’s mood. » 1031 Abbot Kinney Blvd., 310-392-2425 or williejane.com.

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Comments

  1. Al Kee

    August 27, 2013 at 8:06 pm

    Are you serious? “Leave it to Brad Johnson?” How often does Brad or the PR team fellate you guys? These dirtbags stole the name and identity someone else worked very hard to create. You give a flash review of their crappy food, but kudos their wise decision to hire veteran restauranteur Brad Johnson in it while taking the highest of high roads. You knew what this was. So why not call it what it is? Poorly executed thievery. This is why the LA food scene will always be a downsy kid sibling to the cities it begs comparison with: There’s plenty of critics, but they’re all toothless.

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