The Royce Wood-Fired Steak House

[Pasadena]

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Transforming a hotel restaurant from haute cuisine to steak house makes business sense, but we mourn the loss anyway. The Langham Huntington’s dining room still has the stunning interior, and the masterful wine program is now run by Vern Lakusta. Pricey grilled meats are the new focus, dispatched by Craft alum Anthony Zappola. Marbled offerings include all-natural California beef and Australia’s answer to wagyu, along with the real thing. A few sides achieve novelty, such as the spiced spaghetti squash gratin. Hotel guests don’t seem to mind the change; perhaps we’re just nostalgic. » 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena, 626-585-6410 or roycela.com.

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