Son of a Gun

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If they were going for consistency, Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo of Animal could have simply called their latest Fish. The minuscule nautical-themed space features communal seating for walk-ins, but we recommend reserving one of the few solo tables if you value conversation—or elbowroom. Still, the seafood-centric small plates are worth the squeeze. Santa Barbara spot prawns are served up broiled. Uni emboldens the sauce on a rich linguine with clams. Sandwiches make an impact and include a mini lobster roll on a brioche with a crown of translucent potato chips, a ravishing shrimp toast sandwich with a touch of sriracha heat, and a fried chicken sandwich with pickley slaw. Mixologist Lindsay Nader casts a wide net for the classic cocktails. » 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A. (323-782-9033 or sonofagunrestaurant.com). D nightly. Full bar. Seafood   $$

Photograph by Misha Gravenor

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