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There’s a sense of humor to Umami restaurateur Adam Fleischman’s new venture next to the Improv. With a rusted hay baler on the ceiling and whiskey-Mountain Dew cocktails at the bar, Roadhouse LA wears its rural kitsch with a wink of self-awareness. Tender slices of “Brooklyn brisket” lean more to Texas, accompanied by a platter of thick toast, raw onions and jalapeños, and cheddar sauce topped with crushed Cheetos. The barbecue repertoire taps into the global appeal of smoked meat with the inclusion of peppery jerk chicken and Punjabi goat poutine. » 8162 Melrose Ave., 323-556-2700.