Pine & Crane

[Silverlake]

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We’re not sure what percentage of the chic and shaggy set crowding the blond wood tables has ventured to the San Gabriel Valley, but who cares? The café’s farm-to-table approach to Taiwanese beef rolls and peanutty dandan noodles is easy to relish. Most produce comes from the family farm and stars in dishes like sautéed pea shoots and a refreshing wood ear mushroom salad. A few classics taste muted here compared with their SGV counterparts, but we can forgive most anything when our mouths are abuzz from Szechuan-jolted mapo tofu. Soon the vast tea menu (with boba, of course!) will be joined by nighttime-friendly wine and beer. » 1521 Griffith Park Blvd., 323-668-1128

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