Osteria Drago

[West Hollywood]

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Photograph courtesy osteriadrago.com

Although Drago Ristorante is closed, its handmade pastas live on at this addition to Celestino Drago’s Italian empire. Aside from a coat of white paint, little has changed inside the former home of Il Sole (the old tenant’s name remains spelled out in the floor tiles). This is Italian for the Sunset Plaza set, by which we mean there’s kale in the panzanella and chicken and salmon among the secondi. But the chef breaks out with preparations like uni panna cotta with chilled shellfish and a spelt-flour pancake topped with a 63-degree egg and prosciutto. As is often the case at Drago’s spots, though, our favorite dish is a simple pasta: trenne—triangular penne in a spicy tomato sauce. » 8741 W. Sunset Blvd., 310-657-1182

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