Oh, thank the Lord—carbs are back. Specifically the slippery, chewy, diaphanous pastas of the handmade variety. Noodles such as these form the heavenly lodestar of a fresh Cal-Italian menu from former Rustic Canyon honcho Evan Funke. Inch-thick pappardelle lap up lamb ragù; curls of tagliatelle make a nest for a pancetta-loaded ragù bianco. Might we also suggest the bread, of all things, with ash-dusted slabs of goat butter? The Porchetta Truck features the crispy-edged treat that Funke took to the streets pre-Bucato. There are also fried artichokes with bottarga. Considering the tiny portions (that goes for wine, too), you can try everything. In fact, we suggest it. » 3280 Helms Ave., 310-876-0286.