Ricardo Zarate’s newest push for Peruvian cuisine is aptly named after an Amazonian fish. Both are huge (the spot feels like some futuristic ceviche loft), and both are (or were) relatively rare: Marina del Rey hasn’t seen a restaurant of this stature in a long while. The differences between the food here and at Zarate’s other endeavors are nuanced; all his ventures execute spiffy Japanese-Peruvian classics. But at Paiche, the pubby izakaya spirit is amplified, with dishes such as cheese-filled yucca fritters, lobster-laden fried rice, and uni-topped shrimp toast meant to be shared over craft cocktails. Elaborate “sa-shimi-style” ceviches rival the visual artistry of a practiced itamae. » 13488 Maxella Ave., 310-893-6100.