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The Church Key

[West Hollywood]

Photograph by Andrea Bricco

Former XIV chef Steven Fretz is behind the stylish restaurant in the Sunset Towers. The format is similar to that of award-winning State Bird Provisions in San Francisco, where diners select from items on trays passed around the tables. Here bow-tied waiters roam the room offering such dishes as hamachi crudo and crunchy pig’s ear “Cheetos” with guacamole mousse. Larger plates, like glazed Peking quail or pierogi with apple butter, can be ordered à la carte. Cocktails are prepared tableside by waitresses in retro stewardess outfits. Try the canned Negroni, opened—of course—with a church key. » 8730 W. Sunset Blvd., 424-249-3700 or thechurchkeyla.com.