Whether it’s pizza or Billy Crystal, Hollywood loves a good NYC transplant. The latest is Rao’s, a West Coast outlet of East Harlem’s 117-year-old Italian restaurant famous for impossible-to-book tables and celebrity regulars. Reservations are easier to come by here, and the nostalgic charm of the original is evident in year-round Christmas decorations and the waitstaff’s New York accents. The Rat Pack would approve of Italian-American mainstays such as softball-size meatballs swimming in marinara sauce and veal sheathed in mozzarella. Afterward, don’t forget the cannoli, which is filled with barely sweetened ricotta. » 1006 Seward St., 323-962-7267.