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Cortez

[Echo Park]

And with this, Echo Park is a notch closer to becoming a full-fledged hipster hood. The elegantly bare-bones restaurant comes from the duo behind Cookbook, the area’s chic gourmet grocer, and is instantly the neighborhood’s most ambitious dining option. The kitchen would have to work hard to do any less with its ingredients, which is the point. Here you’ll find winter squash roasted and dressed with brown butter and pecorino. A seared round of Caña de Oveja, a Spanish cheese, comes alongside a pile of salad greens. Powerful house-made merguez is tucked into flatbread with yogurt sauce. Cortez may represent ingredients worship taken to the extreme, but its simplicity is at least delicious. » 1356 Allison Ave., 213-481-8015.