The packed house at David LeFevre’s latest spot gawked as two tiers of ocean delights—Atlantic lobster, Dungeness crab, Peruvian scallops, a bevy of oysters, and truly jumbo shrimp—landed on the table along with creative sauces. A premium raw bar near the beach shouldn’t be unusual, but it is. The same goes for velvety clam chowder: LeFevre’s achieves smoky rich-ness without any floury glop. Crab cakes, too, are unsullied by bread crumbs. Oddly the “New School” menu—with dishes like a spicy albacore tartare—feels (and tastes) less novel. No matter. The pot of clams and a blueberry-flecked gin fizz are enough to amaze. » 1148 Manhattan Ave., 310-893-6299 or eatfwd.com.