L.A.’s pop-up king, Ludo Lefebvre, has settled down with partners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo (Animal, Son of a Gun). Despite the hyped alliance, this cranny—hidden beneath a Raffallo’s Pizza sign—could be one of the city’s most laid-back dining rooms (Lefebvre’s temperament notwithstanding). The eight bar stools offer the best view of Lefebvre sprinkling sesame seeds over plump chicken wings, one of several “snacks” that begin the meal. All of the imaginative dishes—from the ethereal “potato pulp” with brown butter and bonito to carrots roasted to their pungent extremes with avocado and yogurt—are plated on artisan pottery. Reservations, prepaid online, are hard to come by. » 716 N. Highland Ave., troismec.com.