When is a steak house more than a steak house? When it’s a time machine that transports you to the days of stiletto heels, velvet curtains, and ultra-lounge dining. While the slick look of Smoke turned us off, cooking a good rib eye has little to do with style. The crab cake was nearly worth its $19 price tag, with huge chunks of sweet Jonah crabmeat. Scallops—translucent in the center (as they should be)—are classically paired with pea ragout and carrot puree. But you’re here for the steak: The dry-aged Kansas is a relative steal at $41, well marbled with a beefy smack. Sides include brussels sprouts and a serious mac and cheese. A smart beverage program brings you back to 2012. » 9010 Melrose Ave., 310-385-2222.