Don’t think of Il Buco as gone—which it is, technically. Rather imagine that the 12-year-old restaurant from Giacomino Drago grew up, underwent a gentlemanly make-over, and changed its name. Deftly executing handmade pastas and other Italian standards at this more everyday spot is chef Fredy Escobar (Alto Palato). His salad of shaved baby artichokes joins watercress and pecorino romano. Pappardelle laps up a chunky lamb ragù. Black cod borders on mushy, however. Your wine bottle—something big and Italian—doubles as decor. » 107 N. Robertson Blvd., 310-657-1345 or a1la.com.