What was once merely “the restaurant” at the boutique hotel L’Ermi-tage is now Livello. Joseph Elvado trained under Nobu Matsuhisa, which helps put his Japanese-Italian fusion menu in context. A 62-degree egg forms a sultry blanket atop mushrooms. Sliced and seared wagyu steak is the base for a forest of broccoli that takes us back to childhood. There’s also straight-up sushi and mixed-race pastas, like spaghetti carbonara with edamame and Benton’s bacon. All is good enough; very little is great—although the patio with fire pits and waterfalls can do wonders for the mood. » L’Ermitage Beverly Hills, 9291 Burton Way, 310-278-3344.