Photograph courtesy bacomercat.com
Chef Josef Centeno will try to fool you into thinking this is a lunchy place dedicated to his signature flatbread taco hybrids called bäcos. But with dinner comes a menu of small plates that rivals the offerings at his Little Tokyo hub, the Lazy Ox Canteen. Ragù is subbed with beef bírria on papardelle. Fried shrimp arrive with heads on, ideal for popping. Chicken thighs are cut into “ribs” and slathered with Szechuan sauce. The bäcos take fusion cuisine to new heights with a version that includes pork, beef carnitas, and salbit-xada sauce as well as a veggie option with a chickpea fritter. House-made shrubs, or drinking vinegars, spice up the bar service. » 408 S. Main St., 213-687-8808 or bacomercat.com.