Spago is marking its 30th anniversary this month. As if to celebrate, Wolfgang Puck has taken over the dining room at another L.A. institution: the remodeled Hotel Bel-Air. We’re not sure how much of the redesign was the restaurant’s idea, but the new patio feels too modern, chopped up, and cold. Foodwise, however, Puck has reached a high note: French langoustines with a seaweed emulsion, wild pheasant with sweet and sour red cabbage, and celery root-Fuji apple agnolotti are all superb, both cutting edge and timeless. But with the average price of an appetizer (yes, appetizer) at $34, few will be able to enjoy the experience. That’s a shame. » 701 Stone Canyon Rd., 310-909-1644.