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Perch

The view over Bunker Hill is almost a burden for this bistro-type operation from the former owners of the Must. Little can match sitting by an outdoor fireplace 15 floors above the city, listening to French pop while soaking up the lights of downtown. A few dishes come close, like the perfectly cooked fillet of perch (the fish, and a clever pun) over baby leeks, the buttermilk-marinated and crispy-baked frog legs, and the down-home take on a cassoulet called Pork & Beans. Other offerings buckle under the pressure, such as the bland broccolini salad and a sloppy rabbit rillettes presentation. But gazing at L.A. with a sparkling Campari royale in hand, it’s easy to overlook any culinary fumbles. » 448 S. Hill St., downtown (213-802-1770 or perchla.com). D Mon.-Sat. Full bar. French Bistro   $$$

Photograph by Lisa Romerein