Marvin

[Beverly Grove]

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Not enough restaurants in this town take aim at the everyday, and those that do seem to think our palates are somehow less sharp between Monday and Thursday. Marvin is nothing extraordinary, and we mean that in the most flattering way. Operated by restaurateur Bruce Marder’s charismatic son Max, the wine bar on Beverly Boulevard serves an unfussy menu of steak frites, steamed mussels, roasted chicken, Italian cheeses, and some Spanish hams—all beneath a tin can-covered ceiling. (Overhead ornamentation is the signature flourish of designer Steven Arroyo.) What sets the place apart is its willingness to put a little something extra into the ordinary. There are sweet specks of lemon zest in the oxtail “marmalade.” The English pea soup is a superior version of the classic. Al dente beans in the cassoulet, bits of skin on the frites—all point to the understanding that simple pleasures are pleasures nonetheless. » 8114 Beverly Blvd., 323-655-5553.

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