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An all-kosher enterprise with a sushi bar and a French twist on restaurant row? OK, you have our attention. Alex Reznik (formerly of Ivan Kane’s Café Was and a onetime Top Chef contestant) takes on the challenge—and rather well, we might add. Cornichons are a nice foil for roasted marrowbones served with garlic crostini. A soup of pureed Jerusalem artichokes (naturally) is poured tableside over crispy chanterelles. Handmade herb-flecked pappardelle is supremely delicate; the savory short rib sauce is the opposite. The restaurant’s lapses have nothing to do with the dietary restrictions: The sushi bar comes off as a crowd-drawing afterthought, and service could use some finessing. Still, this is a kosher cuisine revelation—sommelier Adnen Marouani could teach anyone a thing or two about rabbi-approved wine. » 14 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310-358-0922 or laseinebg.com). D Sun.-Thu., Sat. Full bar. California $$$
Photograph courtesy laseinebg.com