20 Cuisines You Probably Didn’t Know L.A. Had - - Global Eats - Los Angeles magazine
 
 

20 Cuisines You Probably Didn’t Know L.A. Had

From Burmese tealeaf salads to Aussie meat pies doused in ketchup, some uncommonly delicious tastes you must try.

CHIFA

 

Ming Yuen
10053 Valley Blvd., Ste. 2, El Monte, 626-433-0498

Peruvians express the same affection for chifa, a subset of Chinese food brought to the South American country by Chinese immigrants, that many Americans share for chop suey. Nelly Tam Li and her family, owners of Ming Yuen in El Monte, operated a Chinese restaurant in Lima for 20 years. Now they serve chifa cooking in L.A., from arroz chaufa (fried rice) to lomo saltado (wok-fried beef) to kam lu wantan (pork wontons in ginger-tamarind sauce).

MALAYSIAN

 

Depot Bethania
989 S. Glendora Ave., West Covina, 626-962-7722

Malaysia is renowned for its hawker stalls: curries and roti bread dished out from carts like funnel cakes at a carnival. That spirit is captured at Depot Bethania, stationed in a West Covina supermarket food court. Try the char kway teow, a hodgepodge of rice noodles, bean sprouts, chicken, and prawns sautéed in a searing-hot wok and suffused with soy sauce and chili.

SCANDINAVIAN

 

Olsons Deli
5660 W. Pico Blvd., Mid City, 323-938-0742

The original Olsons opened 65 years ago. Since buying it in May, Christian Kneedler has expanded the operation by adding a sit-down café next door. The lox and pickled herring—both cured in-house—are top orders here, but don’t pass on the assortment of Swedish, Danish, and Norwegian meats and cheeses. For a true smorgasbord layer rye crackers with falukorv—a bologna-like beef, veal, and pork sausage that can also be sliced thick and fried in a pan—and västerbotten, a hard cheese that resembles a more mellow Parmesan.

ROYAL KOREAN

 

Yong Su San
950 S. Vermont Ave., Koreatown

Few restaurants in Los Angeles place more emphasis on ceremony than Yong Su San. The ornate dining temple specializes in the cuisine of the Koryo Dynasty, a tenth-century kingdom whose capital was located in what is now North Korea’s ninth-largest city. Elaborate multicourse meals take place in elegant private rooms, concluded by a round of persimmon punch. Traditional dishes such as Kaesong-style wrapped kimchi and meatball-loaded hot pots provide a lavish glimpse into Korean history.

UYGHUR CHINESE

 

Omar’s Xinjiang Halal
1718 New Ave., San Gabriel, 626-570-9778

Hailing from one of China’s northernmost provinces, the Islamic Uyghur cooking found at Omar’s Xinjiang Halal is shaped by the barren mountains of central Asia. The musky scent of cumin-rubbed lamb skewers permeates the restaurant as servers recommend bowls of bouncy hand-pulled noodles in broth, buxom meat-filled dumplings, and a house-fermented yogurt drink that’s a refreshing counterpoint to the spices.

HAITIAN

 

TiGeorges’
309 Glendale Blvd., Westlake

Georges LaGuerre was born in Haiti’s northernmost city, Port-de-Paix. His eponymous restaurant pays homage to the area’s signature dish—nope, not the famous rotisserie chicken but a fritter called accra. Herring, taro root, scallions, onion, and garlic are deep fried and accompanied by a simple slaw. Order a couple to nibble before your chicken with red beans and rice arrives, and end with a cup of brown-sugared coffee scented with bay leaves and key lime.

SOUTHERN VIETNAMESE

 

Hà Tiên Quán
529 E. Valley Blvd., San Gabriel, 626-288-1896

Parts of the Mekong Delta recall the swampy Mississippi. At Hà Tiên Quán in San Gabriel, the premier dish is bun mam, a thick seafood stew stocked with prawns and pork belly that’s often described as “Vietnamese gumbo.” Owner Larry Ta imports his own anchovy paste from the town of Hà Tiên for the soup; to him it’s the critical ingredient.

BANGLADESHI

 

Swadesh
4153 W. 3rd St., Koreatown, 213-386-7799

Less a restaurant than a market with a prepared-foods counter and a few tables, Swadesh is a hub for Bangladeshi fare. Mild yet complex curries highlight proteins such as goat, fish, egg, chicken, and beef. Curried cauliflower and stewed lentils are offered alongside less common vegetables like bitter melon, which tastes exactly as it sounds. A cup of mishti doi, a sweet, fermented yogurt similar to Mexican cajeta, makes for a cool finish.

YOSHOKU

 

Spoon House
1601 W. Redondo Beach Blvd., Gardena, 310-538-0376

Don’t turn up your nose at pasta bolognese from a Japanese restaurant. It’s a component of yoshoku, a uniquely Japanese interpretation of Western cuisine. European and American influences have produced such singular dishes as beefsteak demi-glace and ketchup-slathered omelette rice (omurice), both of which are extremely popular in Japanese eateries around the world. Spoon House in Gardena serves dozens of border-blurring specialties, from uni seafood gratin to corned beef and cabbage.

TAIWANESE

 

Huge Tree Pastry
423 N. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park, 626-458-8689

What’s for breakfast in Taiwan? At Huge Tree Pastry the meal starts with bowls of warm soymilk—sweet or savory—and deep-fried crullers for dipping. Make like the regulars with their Chinese newspapers and order the green onion pancake with egg or the sticky rice roll with pickled greens and shredded dried pork.

MUMBAI STREET FOOD

 

Mumbai Ki Galliyon Se
17705 Pioneer Blvd., Artesia, 562-860-6699

The chaotic roads of Mumbai are lined with steaming food stalls that attract hungry members of all castes. A similar cultural convergence happens at Shruti and Sailesh Shah’s restaurant in Artesia. The menu is composed of nearly a hundred items, including dahi batata puri—hollow crackers filled with mung beans and yogurt and covered with date sauce. If you’re lucky, the chalkboard specials will feature Cauli -65: vegetarian nuggets stained fuchsia from annatto and chilies.

AUSTRALIAN

 

Bronzed Aussie
714 S. Los Angeles St., Ste. 714A, downtown

Perish the thought of Outback Steakhouse; if you want to sample what Australians really eat, mate, stop by downtown’s Bronzed Aussie, an expat-operated pastry shop that takes its meat pies seriously (dousing them in ketchup is perfectly acceptable). Savory sausage rolls and Lamingtons, squares of yellow cake rolled in chocolate and coconut, are as iconic as Vegemite.

SYRIAN

 

Kabab Grill
10401 Venice Blvd., Palms

You’ll recognize most of the items on the menu at this café: chicken shawarma, crispy falafel, and baba ghanouj. What stands out is the large domed oven in the center of the kitchen, which produces safeeha, flatbreads blanketed with ground chicken or salty, and crumbled farmer cheese. Accent the sizzling mezze with a splash of lemon.

BURMESE

 

Daw Yee Myanmar Café
111 N. Rural Dr., Monterey Park, 626-573-8080

The cooking of Myanmar, the country formerly known as Burma, shows off the influences of its neighbors: Thailand, India, and China. At Daw Yee Myanmar Café, the Burmese tealeaf salad is a colorful mosaic of fermented tea leaves layered with toasted peanuts, fried chickpeas, butter beans, sesame seeds, diced tomatoes, green chilies, and lime, all ramped up by a funky hit of fish sauce.

PAKISTANI

 

Al Watan Halal Restaurant
13619 Inglewood Ave., Hawthorne

Local Pakistani fare doesn’t have a nerve center the way Indian food does in Artesia, but those seeking dishes like haleem, a chunky stew of lentils and shredded beef, make for Al Watan in Hawthorne. Flatbreads—from the simple naan to the aloo paratha, which is stuffed with seasoned potatoes—are baked in the tandoor oven, which also puts out such favorites as lamb biryani (a shank of meat atop fragrant rice). Vegetarians can indulge in aloo palak: creamed spinach with potatoes, turmeric, and other spices.

CAMBODIAN

 

Phnom Penh Noodle
13619 Inglewood Ave., Hawthorne

Long Beach is home to the world’s largest Cambodian population outside of Cambodia, making it our preferred destination for a bowl of aromatic rice noodles. At this bare-bones operation, the house specialty is kuy teav, noodles served “dry” or “wet,” with a hearty pork and beef broth strewn with fresh herbs, lemongrass, lime, fried shallots, and crushed chilies.

ECUADORAN

 

El Caserio
309 N. Virgil Ave., Silver Lake

All hail the chuchucara! The platter of roasted pork ribs, empanadas, fried plantains, and toasted hominy at Silver Lake’s El Caserio is a hefty example of that country’s highland cuisine. More adventurous is the gautita, a rib-sticking stew made with beef tripe, potatoes, and creamy peanut sauce. Lap it up with a lla-pingacho, a dense, cheese-stuffed potato cake.

SERBIAN

 

Aroma Café
2530 Overland Ave., West L.A.

Balkan cuisine tends toward the starchy and comforting. The archetypal meal at West L.A.’s homey Aroma Café starts with börek, a flaky, S-shaped pastry packed with feta cheese. Follow that with cevapi, springy beef sausages on rounds of focaccia-like bread, and cap it off with a shot of Turkish coffee. Served in a traditional copper cezve, the brew is strong, bitter, and comes with a cube of rose water-flavored Turkish delight.

PORTUGUESE

 

Nata’s Pastries
13317 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks

Fatima Marques presides over this shrine to Portugal’s pastel de nata, a golden custard tart. On the savory side there’s caldo verde (potato and kale soup), chouriço (Portuguese chorizo) with grilled onions and tomatoes, and bacalhau à brás, a sort of salt cod hash. For dessert might we suggest the cream-filled, doughnut-like malasadas?

CHILEAN

 

El Chilenazo
7238 Canoga Ave., Canoga Park, 818-887-0269

The soda fountains and picadas (canteens) of Santiago de Chile were the inspiration for Giancarlo Aguilera and wife Cecilia Gonzalez’s Chilean sandwich shop. Chacareros are loaded with Chile’s favorite condiment, mayonnaise, along with palta (mashed avocados) and green beans. Chilean restaurants in L.A. are rare and often short-lived, so be sure to experience such soothing dishes as porotos granados—soy beans with mixed meats and vegetables—while you can.

Back to The Food Lovers Guide: Global Eats

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