After you’ve ogled the expanse of furniture at H.D. Buttercup across the way in the Helms Bakery complex, the narrow dining room here can seem austere. Which suits chef Evan Funke’s culinary vision. The L.A. native learned pasta making in Bologna and crafts it in the purest way possible. The mixing, the cutting, the rolling—all done by hand. Funke is willing to veer from the “authentic,” spooning green olive pestata over kampachi crudo, but the compass inevitably returns to such ruggedly refined dishes as the spaghetti bolognese, its pink-hued sauce radiant with fresh tomatoes. Sardinian maccheroni di busa (formed around long needles) come with a bold pork ragù bianco, while walnut pesto rides on disks of pliant corzetti. Breads are another specialty, which will be clear after one bite of the focaccia: a tender round dotted with roasted tomatoes.
Above: Hamachi with citrus