What with the horse show ribbons and the framed prep school yearbook pages, there’s a Cheeveresque spirit to the Palihotel lobby, but old money gentility ends at the boutique inn’s restaurant door. Brian Duns-moor and Kris Tominaga, whose Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing pop-up transported Angelenos to the South, continue to explore the region in a quirky blue-tiled dining room, where a T.S. Eliot portrait peers over a communal table. Dunsmoor worked with Hugh Acheson in Athens, Georgia; Tominaga, with Joe Miller in Venice. The two display exquisite technique. Using crawfish stock (instead of milk) to stretch out a Cajun roux imparts day-boat immediacy to catfish meuniere. As for the onion jam that bestows such majesty on the fried chicken livers, it has simmered six long hours. So look down, Thomas Stearns. If the fried green tomatoes with buttermilk dressing don’t inspire you to take up your pen again, the slice of lemon icebox pie will.
Above: Hamachi with citrus