Great wine list, plush booths, original Toulouse-Lautrec art, beaucoup celebrity sightings—Crossroads is a vegan restaurant that toys with expectations. In keeping with its no-creatures-shall-be-exploited principles, the restaurant won’t deign to serve honey, yet chefs Tal Ronnen and Scot Jones have created an establishment where carnivores will feel almost as comfortable as their meat-free counterparts. The dainty “schnitzel”—crusty, golden, brought into focus by sprightly greens—will make you forget it’s a protein analogue. A smidgen of Old Bay seasoning confers an evocative authenticity on the hearts of palm “crab” cakes. The “oysters,” fashioned from artichoke leaves peppered with rich duxelles and yellow tomato béarnaise, acquire a fitting brininess from the finishing dab of kelp-based beads of “caviar.” Pastry chef Serafina Magnussen does just fine without milk, butter, or cream. A crackling marsala-scented cannoli is freighted with vegan ricotta flecked with lime zest—the pudgy, snow-soft ends dipped in chopped candied olives.
Above: Artichoke hearts with red quinoa