Given to wearing newsboy caps and the sort of work shirts preferred by short order cooks, Jason Neroni grew up skateboarding in Orange County before toiling in Alain Ducasse’s boot camp. Now helming a light-filled corner of Venice’s Rose Avenue, he’s a chef with a style that’s at once easygoing and uncompromising. A tender cauliflower wedge heaped with a gremolata of basil, orange peel, and olives might lead to a big scoop of the city’s definitive chicken liver mousse. Most extraordinary of all, though, are the pastas. The flavors of the wakame spaghettini, twirled into a nest and draped with uni lobes, have an oceanic depth. With the smoked bucatini carbonara, the bite of durum is the only contrast needed to unite the pancetta, black pepper, and egg yolk that cling to the tubes. Unless you can add a guitar and a campfire, you can’t improve on the deconstructed s’mores.