Cider was ubiquitous on our shores from the colonial era well into the 19th century, and I cannot think of a more apposite drink with which to enjoy Thanksgiving supper. Troy Carter makes a delightfully archaic apple cider with apples he harvests from the abandoned orchards of Sonoma County. The trees are antique, some more than 100 years old, and while certain cultivars such as Gravenstein are recognizable, others remain unidentified. Carter adds nothing, letting the juice ferment dry, with only the ambient yeasts in the cellar. The unfiltered result is a cloudy, lightly sparkling, and modestly alcoholic adult beverage that communicates the very soul of the apple. Food pairing: Heritage turkey or Fiscalini Bandaged Wrapped Cheddar from the Cheese Store
of Beverly Hills. Available at: The Wine House, 2311 Cotner Ave., West L.A., $11.
Lou Amdur is the proprietor of Lou Provisions & Wine.