Wok on the Wild Side With Hand Cut Noodles - Digest - Los Angeles magazine
 
 

Wok on the Wild Side With Hand Cut Noodles

Tasting Xu Garden's unruly noodles.

Photography by Eddie Lin

The fried, handmade noodles at Xu Garden in City of Industry are feral, unruly ribbons of wheat. Each batch is hand cut on the premises. Like snowflakes, no one noodle on the plate is identical to another. The firmness of the noodle meets the requisite “QQ” chewiness that is so desirable in Chinese noodles. It's not exactly the al dente that Italians go for; "QQ" refers to a supple springiness in each bite.

These carbs possess a noticable heft that will have your jaw working overtime trying to masticate. But that’s exactly what’s so satisfying about these noodles. The brawniness and the unpredictable nature of the hand cut pasta is akin to noodling in a MMA battle cage. Don’t expect well-behaved, uniform noodles here.

Just about every popular protein you can imagine is included in this plate of fried noodles: Plump shrimp, tender strips of chicken breast, slices of beef, and discs of lap cheong create a kaleidoscope of flavors. Shredded wood ear fungus, julienned red bell peppers, green onions, bean sprouts, and napa cabbage round out the vegetal components. A light gravy coats all involved.

Once in a while we all need to walk on the wild side, even if that walk is actually a wok tossing fragrant hand cut noodles.

 


http://www.lamag.com/Pics/arrow.png Xu Garden, 18508 E. Gale Ave., Ste. B, City of Industry, 626-964-1328

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  1. ArtsBeatLA posted on 08/06/2013 09:19 AM
    Wow - great review! I gotta try these noodles...
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